Saturday 17th November:

Saturday 17th November:

Start:               21,609 @ 10.45

Finish:             21,891 @ 16.15

Distance:         282km (average 51km/hr)

Route: Calangute Beach (Goa) to Udipi (?)

Actual Vasco / Ankoli (drinks) Kumta / Honavar / Bhatkai & back to

                        Murdeshwar

Hotel:              RNS Resort

Today:

Following the laundry saga of yesterday, we delayed our departure from 06.00 to 08.00 so Tony could (potentially) receive his laundry, which should have been returned yesterday and had been rescheduled for 08.00…..How naïve, as on enquiring in the morning, reception confirmed it would arrive at 13.30 ….. (they just do not like to ‘say no’). So, best-laid plans, Tony (after some choice words of encouragement about the process) gave them the LiLit Hotel address for them to post, which of course meant, my day was not starting well either !!

Bikes were loaded, a quick breakfast, bill settled and off for 08.30. But……..Tony’s bike will not start, the battery is flat. An attempt to bump-start, no go…. Then, of course, remembered the bikes are EFI’s with no mag so no power. It was already a steamy day but fortunately, we found a little repair place down the alley by the side of the Sarala Hotel.

An interesting process with the mechanic demonstrating some innovative techniques to identify the battery was basically, stuffed. The bike was innovatively started by jumping the battery from another bike, (by touching terminal to terminal) but there was no certainty, it would hold charge if the engine was stopped later in the day. The only solution …. Replace the battery, so IR3,500 and another hour & all done plus an oil top-up to ‘be sure to be sure’

The original plan to leave at 06.00 in order to make Udipi was now a tad out of sync…. It was 10.45 when we finally left. It was to be a ‘progressive’ ride, to get as close to Udipi as possible.

This required a back-track of 60km to Panji onto the N17 (or was it the N66) depending on where on the map of the road you are looking.

Back past Vasco de Gama, without the slightest regrets and shortly after, we left Goa and passed through a control gate into the region of Karnataka

It was unexpected development to feel an almost instant change to the roads, the organization and even the scenery (that we have still been unable to properly summarise, due to the focus required, to stay on the road)

The road surfaces were more consistent in their quality and there was a marked reduction in speed humps and controls. However, it did appear the cattle were in greater numbers and the dogs more active around the road-sides.   

The improved roads were quite timely, as we did need to press on. This meant there were the usual brushes with incidents, that we now treated as just a part of being on the roads, whilst endeavouring to maintain a reasonable pace to get ourselves down south.

It was another hard days ride which saw us get into the town of Bhakai seeking accommodation. So the usual fall-back…..call into a petrol station, where it is reasonably certain, there will be someone who speaks English. So it was to be and as we have experienced at every stop, the people went out of their way to assist. This resulted in a recommendation to a small community some 15km back the way we had come to Murdeshwar. This was surprising, as there had been no indication of any accommodation or any places of interest on the way through.

Back up the road to we found some very ordinary signage to a turn-off and down a tatty, unmade, rocky, narrow road come track, where we were confronted with a huge wedge shaped temple, possibly 30 – 40 metres high and just behind this, a gigantic illuminated Hindu statue, with hundreds of worshippers milling around a market area, coach park and entertainment stalls. It just appeared from nowhere. !!

What’s more, it was nestled on a coast line with the sea as a backdrop and a large adjacent bay, where Indians were enjoying the pleasures of being in the sea. Quite extraordinary. !

There were two hotels, one rather exclusive option at 385 Euro’s and an alternative under the control of the temple at IR3,000 (£30 / A$55) per night including breakfast. A pretty easy decision, even though the religious connection also meant this was a vegetarian cuisine and alcohol free.

The staff were as always very pleasant and helpful, but it was another very antiquated and basic establishment, plonked into an outstanding location.

There was something for everyone, but as often is the case, there was an overall impression of neglect, unfinished infrastructure, rubbish and smells. The potential for the place could be significant if it was

Sign posted

Promoted

Commercialised to a private organisations standards

Clean and tidy

But, this is not how it is done in these parts. It is not as though there is a shortage of labour….it just appears there is no resolve, enthusiasm or even awareness of the potential that is before them. The beach is obviously part of the attractions, but it is choked with dirty stinking rubbish …….it is a travesty.

We took a walk and tried a local restaurant, asked for and were given some menus, tried to order and then told there were no tables (but we enjoyed reading the menu)

Continuing around the bay, just confirmed the potential, when looking back at both these imposing structures, illuminated against the night sky.